DIY King Size Headboard: A Guide

Have you ever looked at the price tags on headboards in furniture stores and felt your wallet flinch? That was me, a few months ago. As someone who loves a personal touch in every corner of my home, I craved a headboard that was not just a piece of furniture, but a reflection of my style - without breaking the bank. 

After some research, and taking advantage of my confidence to create something DIY style, I decided to build one myself! My budget for this project was $200, which when compared to the price of a king sized headboard seemed like a steal. 

Materials and Tools:

For this headboard, I chose 2x4 wood for its sturdiness and reliability. But here's a tip: I ripped them down to make 2x2s, though you could buy them pre-cut to save time. The ¼” plywood forms the perfect base for our design, providing a smooth surface for the foam and fabric. Speaking of fabric, choose something that resonates with your room's aesthetic - I went with a soft, neutral color that complimented my walls. Batting, a foam pad, and a variety of tools like a mitre saw (though optional), brad nailer, heavy-duty stapler, and a pocket hole jig rounded up my arsenal.

Driver: https://amzn.to/3OnU17j

Pocket Hole Jig: https://amzn.to/4bh4GKH

Foam: https://amzn.to/47YNFSC

Batting: https://amzn.to/3SzdF2C

Mitre Saw: https://amzn.to/42gt4rE

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Brad Nailer: https://amzn.to/3HEQldm

Circular Saw: https://amzn.to/49dNhRq

Stapler: https://amzn.to/3vULxhu

Design and Measurements:

I knew the dimensions needed to be perfect for my king-size bed. After some sketching and calculating, I settled on 77” in width and 36” in height. It's crucial to consider the proportions of your bed and room when deciding these measurements. I even made a simple sketch, which I find helps me visualize my projects before I start.

Step 1: Frame Construction - Laying the Foundation

Constructing the frame is where our headboard begins to take shape. It's a process that demands precision and careful measurement. For my king-size bed headboard, I used 2x4 wood, which I then cut down to make 2x2s. Here's a breakdown of the exact cuts I made:

Long Side Pieces:

I started by cutting two pieces of 2x2 wood to a length of 77 inches each. These served as the top and bottom of the headboard frame, providing the main horizontal structure.

Vertical Supports:

Next, I cut three pieces of 2x2 wood, each measuring 32 inches in length. These pieces formed the vertical supports and were crucial for the frame's stability. It's essential to ensure these cuts are precisely the same length for a balanced and symmetrical frame.

Plywood Cut:

For the plywood, which forms the face of the headboard, I made a single cut to match the outer dimensions of the frame. This piece measured 77 inches in width (matching the length of the top and bottom frame pieces) and 36 inches in height, providing a perfect fit within the frame.

I then used the brad nailer to secure the plywood to the frame. If you don’t have a brad nailer, you can opt for some small screws.

French Cleat Hanger:

Additionally, I prepared a French cleat for hanging the headboard. I took two pieces of scrap wood and cut them each to a length of 2 feet, with a 45-degree angle. These pieces would later be fixed to the wall and the headboard, creating a strong and reliable hanging mechanism.

Once all the pieces were cut, I laid them out on my workspace to visualize the frame. It’s a good practice to do this before beginning assembly, as it gives you an overview of the final structure and helps catch any potential measurement errors.

Assembly Tips:

For joining the frame, I drilled pocket holes in the ends of the vertical supports (32-inch pieces) using a pocket hole jig. Pocket holes are ideal for this project because they create strong joints that are also aesthetically pleasing, as the screws remain hidden within the wood.

I used 1 ½” screws for the pocket holes, ensuring they were long enough to provide a secure hold but not so long as to puncture through the other side of the 2x2s.

By the end of this step, the frame of the headboard should be fully assembled, offering a sturdy base onto which the plywood, foam, and fabric will be added.

Step 2: Adding Foam and Covering with Fabric - Bringing Comfort and Style

After assembling the frame and attaching the plywood, the next step is to add the foam and cover everything with fabric. This is where your headboard starts to get its plush, inviting look.

Preparing and Attaching the Foam:

Begin by laying the plywood-topped frame on the ground, facing upwards.

Measure and cut the foam pad to match the size of the plywood surface (77”x36”). It's crucial to be precise here to ensure a snug fit and a uniform look.

Once cut, use spray adhesive to attach the foam to the plywood. Spray the adhesive evenly on the plywood, and then carefully place the foam on top. Press it down firmly and evenly to ensure it adheres well without any bumps or air pockets.

Adding the Batting:

Lay out the batting on the floor, ensuring it's flat and wrinkle-free. The batting should be larger than the headboard to allow enough material to wrap around the sides.

Place the headboard (with the foam side down) onto the batting.

Begin by pulling the batting tightly over the edges of the headboard and onto the back of the frame. This step is crucial for a smooth, professional finish.

Use your heavy-duty stapler to secure the batting in place. Start from the center of each side and work your way towards the corners, stapling every few inches. Make sure to pull the batting tight as you staple to avoid any wrinkles or loose areas.

Covering with Fabric:

Repeat the process used for the batting with your chosen fabric. Lay the fabric down first, ensuring it's smooth and free of wrinkles.

Place the headboard (now with foam and batting) onto the fabric.

As with the batting, begin stapling the fabric to the back of the frame, starting from the center and moving towards the corners. The fabric should be pulled taut to ensure a neat, wrinkle-free finish. Take extra care at the corners to fold the fabric neatly, much like wrapping a present, for a clean, professional look.

Trim any excess fabric or batting from the back to give it a tidy appearance.

Tips for a Perfect Finish:

When attaching the foam, batting, and fabric, always ensure that each layer is smooth and wrinkle-free before securing it.

The corners can be tricky – take your time to fold them neatly for a crisp, tailored look.

If your fabric has a pattern, make sure it's aligned correctly and consistently across the headboard.

Step 3:  Creating a Mitred Frame and Staining - An Optional Elegant Finish

For those who wish to add an extra touch of elegance and structure to their headboard, creating a mitred frame is an excellent option. This step is entirely optional; some may prefer the simplicity and softness of a fully fabric headboard. However, adding a wooden frame can provide a striking contrast and a more defined shape to the headboard.

Measuring and Cutting the Frame:

Once the fabric covering is complete, measure the dimensions of the headboard again. This ensures that the frame fits perfectly over the fabric.

Based on these measurements, cut your 1x3 wood strips to create the frame. For a king-size headboard measuring 77”x36”, you'll need two lengths matching the width (77”) for the top and bottom, and two lengths (shorter by the width of your frame wood, typically 3 inches) for the sides.

Cut each end of these strips at a 45-degree angle. These mitred cuts are what allow the corners of the frame to join together neatly, giving a professional, polished look to your headboard.

Staining the Frame:

Before assembling the frame onto the headboard, choose a stain that complements or contrasts nicely with your fabric. Staining not only enhances the wood's natural beauty but also provides protection.

Apply the stain following the manufacturer's instructions. Usually, this involves brushing on the stain, letting it sit for a few minutes to absorb, and then wiping off the excess. Allow ample time for the stain to dry completely.

Attaching the Frame:

Once the stain is dry, lay out the frame pieces around the headboard to ensure a proper fit.

Attach each piece of the frame to the edges of the headboard using a brad nailer. Be cautious to align the mitred corners precisely, as this will define the craftsmanship of your headboard.

Secure the frame from the back to avoid visible nail heads on the front.

Step 4: 

Finishing Touches: Hanging the Headboard Using French Cleats - A Secure and Efficient Method

After the headboard is fully assembled and the optional wooden frame is added, the final step is to securely mount it on the wall. French cleats are an excellent choice for this task as they provide a sturdy and reliable method for hanging heavy items like headboards.

Preparing the French Cleats:

Recall the two 2-foot pieces of wood cut at a 45-degree angle for the French cleat. These pieces will work together to securely hold the headboard against the wall.

One piece of the cleat will attach to the back of the headboard, and the other will be secured to the wall. The angle cuts should fit into each other, creating a strong interlocking mount.

Attaching the Cleat to the Headboard:

Choose which piece of the cleat will attach to the headboard.

Position this piece on the back of the headboard, typically near the top, ensuring it's centered and level.

Secure the cleat to the headboard using screws, drilling them through the cleat and into the frame of the headboard. Be sure to use screws that are long enough to provide a solid hold but not so long that they penetrate through the front of the headboard

.

Mounting the Wall Piece of the Cleat:

Find the studs in your wall where you plan to hang the headboard. This ensures a secure mount.

Hold the second piece of the cleat against the wall, with the angle facing upwards and inwards. Use a level to ensure it's straight.

Mark the drill holes, then secure the cleat to the wall studs with screws. Again, ensure the screws are appropriate in length and size for your wall type and the weight of the headboard.

Hanging the Headboard:

With the cleats installed, lift the headboard and position the cleat on the back over the wall-mounted cleat. Carefully lower the headboard so that the two parts of the French cleat interlock. Double-check to ensure the headboard is secure and level. I Highly recommend getting a helping hand for this step!

Final Check and Adjustments:

Once the headboard is hung, step back to check its position and stability. Make any necessary adjustments to ensure it's perfectly placed and securely attached.

Remember, the advantage of a French cleat system is not only its strength but also the ease with which you can remove the headboard for cleaning or redecorating.

This final step concludes the creation of your custom headboard. Whether you choose to add the wooden frame or not, the result is a unique, handcrafted piece that not only saves cost but also adds a personal touch to your bedroom sanctuary. Remember, DIY is all about making it your own, so feel free to adapt these steps to suit your vision and style!